Leaving Miena, we traveled across a very different landscape of Tasmania’s Central Plateau to Bronte Park.
From the Great Lake Hotel, CareFree and I continued west on the dirt road that brought us to the hotel the day before yesterday. We passed a sign warning that the road may become impassable during periods of inclement weather. We wondered what sort of weather (High winds? Heavy rain? Snow?) the sign envisioned, and didn’t get any particular answer from the road while walking it. At least, it seemed to be relatively isolated, and low-traffic, so we didn’t have too many cars kicking up dust.
The weather was reasonably nice. Bright and sunny, it was warm, and rather windy. The clouds didn’t do much to shade us, but they did form interesting streaks in the sky.
The landscape was also quite different. Barely any trees, it was all bushes, grass, and other low-growing scrub. We weren’t that high in elevation, starting the day at just over 1,000 meters, but it was clearly an alpine environment.
We crossed the River Ouse, which (unsurprisingly) flows to Ouse, which we’ll reach in two days. Just beyond that was Little Pine Lagoon, with its two outflows, Deep Creek and Little Pine River.
Along the road, especially near the lagoon were a few houses (many of which we presumed were vacation homes), some of which were up for sale. They certainly had nice scenery, but living someplace that was easily over an hour away from the nearest grocery store doesn’t have much appeal to me.
A sign at the Little Pine Lagoon Lakeside Reserve claimed that the lagoon is “probably the best known fly fishing water in Australia”. Which seems surprising, since it’s roughly in the center of Tasmania with not much else around it. But I guess like I’m willing to travel for good scenery, anglers are willing to travel for good fishing. Like many of the other lakes on the Central Plateau, the lagoon is the result of modification for hydroelectric power: the lagoon was formed by the addition of a dam on the Little Pine River, and water is channeled to Lake Echo for use in power generation.
We stopped for a break at the dam, which was also near a small parking area. While we were there, we saw a van full of bikes, and two more vans of people drive past. I guessed (wrongly) that in another hour or so, we’d have two dozen cyclists zoom past us.
Once we got near and passed the Little Pine Lagoon, we started heading downhill, and the number of trees gradually picked up, until we were again on a road surrounded by trees.
About 45 minutes after we left the dam, we reached a wooden trail sign, with markers pointing straight ahead on the dirt road we were on (for cyclists) and off down a rocky, grassy path (for walkers and equestrians). The trail guide suggested that this route was in the works, though did not provide a description or the location of the turn-off, only that discussions with the landowner were still in progress. To add to the confusion, a faded pair of “temporary detour” markers had been affixed, pointing up and down the dirt road.
Later on, when we stopped on the side of the road for a break, someone from the Tasmanian Land Conservancy, who owns the land surrounding the road, who was driving by stopped to talk to us. He was surprised that we were walking the road, since there was, in his mind, a perfectly good trail for us to be on, and was unaware of any further discussions to be had. He said he’d bring it up with his bosses (and us, with the Tasmanian Trail Association, which requests check-ins and comments after most sections of the trail).
He also gave us some camping recommendations for later today, since he had less than flattering things to say about Bronte Park. Before leaving us, he also offered to refill our water bottles, but we still had plenty of water, and another lake coming up that we could refill at before Bronte Park. After he left, CareFree and I doubted we’d go ahead with his campsite suggestions, since they would either cut today very short, or make it uncomfortably longer.
Eventually, we turned off the “main” road, onto a private dirt road through the Conservancy’s land with zero traffic, and a gate to keep traffic out. Not that there was tons of traffic on the road we’d been following since leaving the hotel, but it’s much nicer to be able to walk in the middle of the road and not have to worry about other cars.
The landscape here again shifted, with stands of trees interspersed in an area with very limited ground cover. We also passed by an old, abandoned quarry adjacent to the road.
As we continued to slowly descend the Central Plateau, we approached Pine Tier Lagoon, another lake formed by dams for hydro projects. A few car camping areas sprinkled around the lake had quite nice views. We stopped near one to take a break and filter water. It was good timing; I’d drained the water bladder in my pack shortly before we stopped.
This break also made clear CareFree’s old pair of shoes had reached their expiration date: both shoes had a hole that went all the way through the sole, large enough to stick a finger through. (Despite having a new pair of trail runners in the box sent to Miena, she opted to keep using her old pair of shoes as long as possible since they had more cushion.)
Leaving the campground, we crossed over the Bronte Flume, the outflow from Pine Tier Lagoon which is sent to a power station about 20 km south.
Later, we were briefly interrupted by a snake crossing the road, one of very few we’ve seen on the Tasmanian Trail.
Eventually, we entered Bronte Park, a small town with very little to offer: a general store, and not much else. The official campsite for the section is located in a lawn behind the general store, next to the public park, which included a small playground for children, a picnic table, and public restrooms with running water. We were a little concerned we’d get there after the store closed, since we needed to check in with the store manager, but it was still open when we got there shortly before 6.
We got soda and ice cream (naturally), and sat down at the picnic table for a break, and we took a break to cool down (and eat our ice cream). CareFree unceremoniously disposed of her holey shoes.
After, we got the tent set up, and got dinner cooked, and finished with not much time to spare: some light rain blew through, though we had plenty of warning from the dark clouds approaching.
One other person was camped out behind the general store with us, though I got the impression they were a more long-term camper; they had a car we saw them sitting in for a while in the evening, and a large tent
Tomorrow, we’ll be up and gone early, with a slightly longer day to a campsite a little more than halfway between Bronte Park and Ouse.